When I lived in France, I was introduced to the tradition of the Fête des rois during the month of January. At every event or gathering I attended during the month, a galette des rois – a delicious puff pastry cake filled with almond cream – would be produced, often accompanied by a bottle of Champagne. Everyone in attendance would be offered a slice and whoever discovered the fève or trinket in their portion would be crowned king or queen for the evening.

The Fête des rois, or Feast of the Kings, refers to the arrival of the three kings to the birthplace of Jesus – Epiphany in the church calendar. The fève was originally literally a bean, but nowadays is usually a porcelain figure, which can take many forms. It seems they have even become collectors’ items in France, their collectors being known as fabophiles or favophiles.

In Australia, I introduced the tradition to my own family to soften the disappointment for my children of having to take the Christmas decorations down on the 6th of January, or Twelfth Night. The custom requires the youngest child to go under the table and shout out the name of the person to receive each slice of galette. We have shared the tradition with various friends and family members over the years and I am never allowed to forget to organise the occasion.